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影/ 中式手工旗袍帶出優雅氣質 一件成品竟須花數個月完成 | ...
The China Post     2021/04/07 18:00

【看CP學英文】旗袍作為中國文化的代表往往為人所熟知,然而較少為人知的是每一件成品背後所需花費的工夫,使其成為獨一無二的旗袍。

Qipaos are most often known as an iconic representation of Chinese culture; however, not many know the details and hard work behind each garment to make it one-of-a-kind.

根據瀚藝藝術總監周朱光所述,「旗袍的審美較為優雅」。

According toHanart(瀚藝) art director ZhouZhuguang(周朱光), “the aesthetic of qipao is elegant.”

他表示「我們這個作法是比較典型的手工坊,就如全世界做高級訂製都是手工坊來做的一樣」,並強調手工旗袍的堅持來自老祖宗傳下好手藝。

“Hanartis a typical handicrafts workshop just like other brands that make haute couture,” he explained, adding that their insistence on “handmade” qipaos lies in the techniques handed down by their ancestors.

周朱光表示較好的旗袍通常都是訂製的。

Zhou revealed that the nicer qipaos are always tailor-made.

「這些好的手藝可能有些是我們中國獨特的,而製作旗袍也有很多步驟」他說。

“Some of the craft is unique to China, and there are many steps to making a qipao,” he said.

從量身,選樣,開版製作,試樣,去做裁減,繡完後再合成製作,再重新試樣,旗袍需要經過多個專業的技師才能完成。

From taking measurements, choosing a style, cutting patterns, sewing, fitting, embroidering, second fitting, and so on, qipaos undergo a lengthy process before completion.

周朱光也回憶道以前的師傅都會從頭做到尾,但現在的工作方式較講究分工。

Zhou recalled that masters would finish the whole thing from top to bottom in the past, but nowadays, there is a division of work.

「每道工都需要不同的人,所以如果是一件繡花的旗袍,差不多8個員工連續作戰,連續的工作才能完工。」

“A different tailor does every step,” Zhou said, so a smocked qipao may need the constant cooperation of eight tailors or more to complete.

由於製作旗袍的過程較複雜,有時一件繡花旗袍就需要耗費將近兩到三個月才能完成。

As the process is quite complex, it could take up to two to three months to finish one smocked qipao, Zhou revealed.

旗袍的重要性也深刻的烙印在周朱光的心中,他表示在機器的時代「手工就變得很稀有、很重要。」

The importance of qipaos also lay heavily on Zhou’s heart as he believes “in the age of machines, handicrafts are getting rare and precious.”

「今天一件手工製作的旗袍,可能以後就是博物館收藏品。」

“A handcrafted qipao today may become an art piece collected by a museum.”

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